There are no new Ford Falcons rolling off the assembly line, so if youre a fan of this make, youve got to treat yours with the utmost care. An important part of maintenance involves checking the brake rotors periodically for pitting or cracking. When the rotors start looking worse for wear, its time for replacement. Fortunately, this is a relatively fast and easy process that requires only the most basic tools.
Instructions
1
Park your Falcon on a level surface and put it in park, but do not apply the parking brake. Make sure the steering column is not locked.
2
Slide wheel chocks behind each of the two front tires.
3
Slide a floor jack under the rear end of the car, directly beneath a solid part of the frame. Pump the jack handle until the rear end of the car is up high enough for you to be able to put two jack stands underneath.
4
Put a jack stand under each side of the rear end of the car, making sure theyre positioned beneath solid sections of the frame. When the stands are in place, gently release the pressure on the jack until the car comes to rest on the stands. Pull the jack out from under the car.
5
Use a tire iron to remove all of the lug nuts from each of the two rear wheels, then pull the wheels off and set them aside.
6
Locate the two large bolts on the back side of each rear brake caliper. Use a socket wrench to remove these bolts, but do not pull the calipers off of the caliper mounts immediately.
7
Get some twine, wire, twist ties or some other binding material. One at a time, lift each caliper off of the caliper mount and temporarily attach it to an exposed part of the undercarriage using your binding material. This is just to make sure that the caliper does not dangle by the brake line, which can cause brake line damage and subsequent failure.
8
Pull both brake pads out of each of the two rear caliper mounts.
9
Use a socket wrench to remove the two bolts holding each of the rear caliper mounts to the rear rotors. Set these bolts and the caliper mounts aside.
10
Pull both of the old rotors off of the wheel spindles.
11
Slide the new rotors onto the rear wheel spindles.
12
Reattach the brake caliper mounts to the new rotors using the original bolts. Install them in the same approximate location where they were installed on the old rotors.
13
Slide the brake pads back into the slots on both rear caliper mounts. If youre switching to new pads at this time, use the new ones instead.
14
Untie each dangling caliper one at a time and place it over the caliper mount, then install and tighten the two bolts on the back side.
15
Reinstall both rear wheels by sliding them onto the wheel spindles and tightening down all of the original lug nuts with a tire iron.
16
Slide the floor jack back under a solid part of the rear frame and jack it up to about one inch above the jack stands. Reach under the car to pull out the jack stands, then carefully lower the Falcon all the way to the ground.
17
Move the wheel chocks to the rear tires and repeat this entire process on the front end of the car.
Summary:www.know-car.com auto repair videos When changing brake pads on a car, make sure the car is jacked up, remove the bolts on the caliper and remove the brake pads. Replace brake pads in a car with help from an auto mechanic in this free video on car maintenance and repairs.
Hi all, just wanna share how to replace a fuel filter on AE111 4AGE engine. I think AE101, AE92 and 4AFE engine would be the same. p/s: Proton wira fuel filter also can be use but it come without bracket. 1-Remove fuel hose at bottom of the fuel filter. 14mm nut
2-Remove fuel filter holder at the side of the body. 10mm nut
3-Remove fuel hose at top of the filter. 17mm nut
4-As we can see here yellow Ron95 petrol has turn to black and maybe clogged injector too.
5-New fuel filter on the left.
6-New filter on the right.
After change to new fuel filter, my butt can feel my car more responsive.
The anti-lock braking system on the 1990 Honda Accord uses three main components, in conjunction, to work effectively. The brake pads and calipers are responsible for squeezing against the brake rotor when the brake pedal is depressed. A rotor that is severely scored or warped will not perform as the driver expects. While it is possible to have scratched rotors resurfaced, any deep gouging of the rotor surface or warping will require immediate replacement.
Instructions
1
Jack up the Honda and support the vehicle on jack stands.
2
Remove the lug nuts with the lug wrench and pull the wheel of the corresponding rotor(s) to be replaced from the wheel bolts.
3
Remove the caliper bolts with a 13-mm wrench and pull the caliper from its mount around the rotor. Place the caliper on top of the steering arm or on an idle jack stand to prevent the weight of the caliper from damaging the attached brake line.
4
Remove the two screws on the top hat surface of the rotor with a Phillips-head screwdriver. The top hat section of the rotor is the raised center surface on the outside of the rotor.
5
Pull the rotor straight from the wheel bolts (outward). Spray the rotor with chain lubricant if it is stuck to the wheel bolts or steering knuckle (the component directly behind the rotor when installed).
6
Spray the new rotor with brake cleaner and wipe excess cleaner packing oil from the rotor with a towel.
7
Place the new rotor onto the wheel bolts, with the top hat section facing outward. Replace the two screws on the outer surface with the Phillips-head screwdriver.
8
Return the caliper onto the rotor and replace the caliper bolts with the wrench.
9
Place the wheels onto the wheel bolts and screw on the lug nuts. Remove the jack stands from beneath the Honda and lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
The rear brake pads on a Cutlass Supreme wear down over time but typically not as fast as the front pads. Although the rear brakes dont have to endure the weight of the engine when stopping, they work to keep your car level. Damaged or badly worn rear brakes will cause your car to aggressively lunge forward at any stopping attempt. Rather than spending half of your day at the auto repair shop, you can change the rear brakes on the 1989 Cutlass Supreme right at home. The repair should take you 40 minutes.
Instructions
1
Place a wheel block firmly into position in front of both driver and passenger front tires. Use a lug wrench to loosen the rear drivers side tires lug nuts a half-turn counterclockwise.
2
Raise the car with the hydraulic jack forward of the tire. The tire should visibly measure 6 inches from the ground. Place a jack stand on the left of the jack beneath the frame rail to help support the weight of the Cutlass Supreme.
3
Remove all of the lug nuts and slide the tire off the wheel studs, using both hands. Roll the tire to the side of your work area and place the lug nuts in a safe location free of dirt.
4
Note the position and direction of both brake pads on the caliper. They must be replaced just as you see them. Both pads are held in place on the caliper by the clips that are mounted on the surface of each pad. The clips will simply pop out of place.
5
Remove the upper and lower caliper mounting bolts at the rear of the brake caliper with a socket wrench. Put the bolts in your pocket for safekeeping. Place a 5-gallon bucket within the wheel well right next to the brake caliper.
6
Use both hands to lift the brake caliper up and off the rotor then set it down on top of the bucket. Pop the outer brake pad off the caliper and then pop the inner brake pad off the caliper piston.
7
Rotate the caliper piston clockwise with a pair of 12-inch adjustable pliers until it appears completely level in its bore hole. The bore hole is the housing that the piston protrudes from, and the piston must be forced back down into it to install the new brake pads.
8
Install the new inner brake pad just as you removed the old pad then install the new outer pad in the same manner. Both pads should pop back into place with a minimal amount of force.
9
Lift the brake caliper off the bucket using both hands and slide it back down over the rotor. Install both of the caliper mounting bolts by hand and tighten them until snug. Set your 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to 92 foot-pounds and secure both bolts in place. Move the bucket out of your work area.
10
Mount the tire back onto the wheel studs and replace all of the lug nuts by hand. Then use your lug wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern until snug. Remove the jack stand and lower the car until the tire makes contact with the ground. Reset the torque wrench to 100 foot-pounds and continue tightening the lug nuts in the star pattern until secure.
11
Lower the car and remove the hydraulic jack. Pump the brake pedal slowly until you feel it stiffen beneath your foot. Repeat the entire process to replace the rear passengers side brake pads.
-Wheelbrace (Should be included in your cars repair kit though investing in a Metal cross would be worthwhile).
-Fresh brakePads EUR30+
-Hydraulic Jack (you will need a proper main jack in conjunction with some axle stands
Basic Car Maintainence II; Brake Pad Change
Pad removal checklist
-Procedure -Check?
Loosen wheel nuts
Jack car up
Remove wheel
Examine braking system
Remove Caliper, Slide away from wheel
Open caliper pins, release brakepads
Check Brake disc for damage
Prior Preparation:
-Always park your car in a suitable area with adequate workspace when attempting a brakepad change. Secure the Handbrake and disengage gear to neutral, prior to jacking the car up.
-Now block the cars rear wheels so it wont roll once you jack it up onto the axle stands!
-Spread your tools out and select a wheelbrace, moving to one of the front wheels. The wheelbrace is a metal bar with a socket on the end for removing wheelnuts. It will usually come with your cars toolkit, however if you dont have one, a socket set purchase will be necessary!
-Its always a good idea before jacking the car up, to loosen the wheel nuts first, whilst the car still rests on the ground. Usually the nuts will be tight, so trying to loosen them whilst the wheel is in the air will create some problems, (i.e. the wheel will keep spinning around!). Grab your wheel brace and proceed to loosen the nuts, however dont take them off fully, loosen them just enough until they can later be removed by hand.
-Jack the car up in a suitable, supported area of the cars chassis. Recommended areas to jack the car up will be detailed in your cars, owners manual. Make sure you use the chassis as a jack point for trying to lift the car! Never work on a car which has been elevated by only a hydraulic jack. Place both axle stands under each end of the main front axle, lowering the car onto the stands
Removing old brakes:
-Now that the car is supported firmly on the stands, you can progress to remove the wheel! The already loosened wheel nuts can be removed by hand, and when taken off make sure to place them in a cardboard box or in a drawer so you can find them at a later stage!
-Remove the wheel slowly and place it under the cars door nearest the wheel you are working on. You can never be careful enough when working on a suspended car, in addition to the axle stands and jack you are using, its always a good idea to have that wheel there, in case a faulty axle stand, broken jack etc lets you down and could result in the car falling! Taking these small yet extremely relevant safety steps are extremely necessary.
-Now that you have removed the wheel entirely, a brake system assembly should be visible before you.(or if not your in trouble!). The braking system consists of a brake caliper, two brakepads and a brake disc.
-As the diagram illustrates, the brake caliper is attached to the brake disc. Inside the caliper are two brakepads which need changing. When you press the brake lever in your car, the caliper will squeeze the brakepads onto the brake disc, in turn slowing them down, and effectively then the wheel. Imagine a CD spinning around, where a hand then from either side clamps onto it slowly, that has the same principle as the braking system.
-There will be bolts which fix the caliper in place and prevent movement. Remove these bolts (spanner size requirements will vary on different cars, investing in a socket set is again advised!) and take the caliper away from the brake disc. You should now have the brakepads within vision through the caliper.
-Examine the caliper closely. On different cars, brakepads will be held in by contrasting methods. Clip pins usually fix the pad into place, so when you remove these pins the pad will be released and can then be removed. Follow this procedure and remove the old pads. While you are examining the brakepads, glance over the brake disc also, if it has any grooves or chips in it, it will need replacing.
Replacing with new pads:
-Now that you have removed the old brakepads and are ready to replace with new pads, firstly check you have bought the correct size and model! Compare the new with the old, and once satisfied progress to place the new pads into the brake caliper, and make sure they are put in the right way!!
o Pull quote for pic: "Brakepad wear will be significantly increased on the right-hand side front wheel, due to added weight of the driver under braking."
-In putting in new pads, you will have to push the caliper piston back in, in order to fit the new pads in. The piston is usually a round face which pushes the brakepads in when the brake lever is pressed by a cars driver. When you would have earlier took the pads out, the piston will have opened out. This can be slightly tricky, so try pushing it back in with the heel of your hand firstly. If that doesnt work you can try an flathead screw-driver to gently prise the piston down and back into original position.
-Repeat the above procedure, though in opposite motion. Ensure that the piston is back in place, fit the new pads and put the clips back on which hold them in place! Remount the caliper back on to the brake disc. When this has been completed check around the caliper and bolts to ensure everything has been completed successfully.
-Find your wheel nuts which earlier where placed in a box, and place the wheel back on. When lined correctly, place the wheel nuts on, only by hand. Remove the axle stands and release the Jack slowly until the car rests on the ground. Grab your wheel brace and tighten the wheel nuts. Hey Presto, you have a brakepad change, but wait, theres the other front wheel! Repeat the procedure on the other wheel.
When you have completely finished both wheels, before you go driving make sure to pump your brake lever inside the car or you will have no brakes! Press the brake lever up and down, this will force hydraulic oil back into the braking system, which will push your
Pad Replacement checklist
-Procedure -Check?
Push Caliper piston back in
Place pads back in and lock with pins
Remount caliper to brake disc
Check everything over
Remount wheel
Put wheel nuts back on
Pump Brake lever prior to driving!
Basic Car Maintainence II; Brake Pad Change Lincoln Navigator For Sale 00.00, Headers, Flowmaster Super 40 Exhaust Sound Video Clips. Duration : 1.18 Mins.
1998 Lincoln Navigator Flowmaster Super 40 Sound Clip with Performance Modifications. Improvements most within the last 2-3 years: Directed Elec. VIPER 5900 2-way Security, Remote start, SST range;1 mile 0.00 Alpine Detachable head CD stereo main unit Alpine 650 Watt RMS Amplifier, 12" Alpine Type R dual voice coil sub, ported enclosure Capacitor with digital voltage readout to maintain voltage to amplifier 4 Infinity high performance door speakers All stereo equipment 50.00 (2007) (Note: If you are looking at this to purchase and want the stereo equipment, add 0.00 to the 00.00 price, otherwise the factory unit will be re-installed - we will leave the Infiniti door speakers) K&N GEN II FIPK 57-2541 INTAKE- 0.00- Estimated HP Gain: +13.12 HP @ 4562 RPM JET PERFORMANCE MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR Part #: 69112 - 1.00 - Approx +15HP Gain BBK 75MM THROTTLE BODY - 0.00 - approx +18 HP Gain 180 DEGREE THERMOSTAT - .00 - approx +13 HP (MFG states) JBA JBA-1679S-4 Stainless Steel HEADERS - 0.00 - approx +40HP gain (2008) 3" FLOWMASTER muffler, custom 3" Pipe, 18" Summit Racing SS Tip; - 0.00 -approx +16HP Gain (2008) SUPERCHIPS PERFORMANCE TUNER #1715 - 5.00 - approx +20HP Gain (2008) NEW NGK HIGH END SPARK PLUGS - .00 (2008) NEW ACCEL COILS - 0.00 (2008) NEW ACCEL FUEL INJECTORS - 0.00 (2008) ENERGY SUSPENSION FRONT & REAR SWAYBAR BUSHING KITS - .00 (2008) Powerslot Cryo-treated Slotted Rotors FRONT - 0.00 (2008) Akebonos ProACT™ Ceramic ...
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Rotors are often overlooked during the replacement of the brakes on a vehicle. The Ford F150 uses front rotors and rear drum brakes on most models. This article will address the front rotors only, as this is the configuration found on most trucks.
Instructions
1
Raise the front of the truck with a floor jack and support it on a set of jack stands. Be sure the stands are under the frame and are not going to slide or move.
2
Remove the front tires from the truck, using a socket and breaker bar to remove the lug nuts. Set the lug nuts aside for use later when you replace the tires.
3
Locate the two bolts on the back of the brake caliper. Remove both bolts with an Allen wrench and lift off the caliper. Support the caliper with a piece of string or wire so that it does not hang on the rubber brake hose.
4
Locate and remove the two bolts on the back side of the steering knuckle that hold the mounting bracket for the caliper onto the knuckle. Use a wrench or socket to remove the bolts. Remove the bracket and set it aside.
5
Slide the rotor off the wheel studs. Once it is free from the studs you can set it aside and slide the new rotor onto the wheel studs.
6
Reinstall the brake pad mounting bracket and tighten the two bolts, with a socket and torque wrench. The torque specification is different from year to year, so you will need to check with the dealer to get the right specification for your truck.
7
Insert the brake caliper back into the mounting bracket and install the two bolts that hold it. Tighten the bolts with an Allen wrench until snug. Do not over-tighten these bolts or you may strip the heads on them, making them very hard to remove later.
8
Install the wheel and tire back on the truck and thread the lug nuts onto the wheel studs. Tighten with a lug wrench or socket and breaker bar. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturers specification.
9
Remove the jack stands from under the frame and slowly lower the truck back to the ground, using your jack. Test the brakes before driving the truck on the road.
