Showing posts with label the. Show all posts
Showing posts with label the. Show all posts

How to Remove the ABS on a 2000 GMC 2500

The ABS system in a 2000 GMC 2500 is regulated by a control unit thats mounted on the frame. This control unit uses the signal from the wheel speed sensor to determine whether the vehicle is in an emergency braking situation. If it is, then the ABS is activated. If your vehicles ABS system is in any way malfunctioning, then youll need to remove it from the truck in order to fix the issue.

Instructions

    1

    Look underneath the truck, on the inside of the drivers side frame rail (directly underneath the drivers side door), to locate the ABS electro-hydraulic control unit. Place the drain pan underneath the control unit.

    2

    Remove the brake lines leading into and out of the control unit, using a line wrench -- do this by first cracking open the line to allow the pressure to bleed off, then opening up the line all the way.

    3

    Unplug the wiring to the control unit, using your hands. Unbolt the control unit from the frame, using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket, then pull the control unit off the frame and out from under the truck.

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Some of the VDOs caught with AHW308 onboard videocam

Night-time driving with retrofit Projector- 4300K 35W HID lights @ low-beam


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Preventive Maintenance Tips to Check and Troubleshoot the Repair of Document Scanner Problems

Maintenance and care of equipment is essential to prevent costly repairs and to save unnecessary service calls. In most cases, malfunctions are resolved by operator checks and corrective action. Your wallet will thank you, when the operator has properly checked to determine why devices are not functioning and avoids calling for service to repair or replace a working device.

Before operating the unit, read the manual that was included in the box or download it from the manufacturer website. Otherwise, you may risk damaging the device or voiding the warranty.

PMCS - Preventive Maintenance Checks and Services

Cleaning is the most important step to keep your device working properly. Clean dirty brake rollers, feed rollers, pads, glass, shading plates with a manufacturer cleaning kit or isopropyl alcohol, a lint free cloth, and Q-tips. Also make sure that the paper path is clean and free of debris.

Depending on the condition of documents and environment, the equipment may require a periodic disassembly to fully clean debris, paper clips, staples, dust, etc. that may have worked its way into the insides of the mechanism. The debris can cause a motor to stop running and rollers and belts to jam. Use a shop-vac to vacuum whatever dirt or foreign objects that have worked their way inside the main and side covers. Generally, it is not recommended to blow the scanner out using a compressed can of air. The reason is that the compressed air leaves film on the glass, does not remove the dirt (just blows it around), may break seals and cold air could damage a hot sensor.

CDD (Charge-coupled device) Cameras and CIS (Contact Image Sensor Assembly) Reader

Upon disassembly, the cameras units on devices with CCD cameras should be cleaned. Care should be taken not to damage the cameras as they are usually quite expensive. Canon products are equipped with CIS reader assemblies with a LED light source and the reader assemblies should not be removed or disassembled to avoid damage.

Consumable Replacement

Separator pads and pick rollers should be replaced when worn or according to manufacturer schedule. Shading plates and glass should be inspected and replaced as required. Fluorescent lamps usually require replacement between 500 to 1000 hours of use according to manufacturer guide recommendations. Canon uses a LED light source that usually does not require periodic replacement.

The Scanner System

Systems include not only the scanning devices, but also the computer and operating system as well as the software. There is a tendency to think that problems are mechanical. This is not always the case. In order to resolve the troubles, users may require technical competency. A+ skills and practices should be employed to troubleshoot the system before a service call. The technician is hired to fix the hardware. It is not his job to diagnose computer systems. This is your job or the job your IT department.

Hardware Feed Issues and Poor Scan Quality

Feed issues and poor scan quality are usually corrected through cleaning and replacing worn consumables. Brake and pick rollers should be checked to ensue that they are properly installed. The paper path should also be inspected and any foreign objects removed.

Scanning Software

Common are issues with drivers not found or installed. Re-install the software or make sure that the driver is recognized. Outdated firmware may also cause the equipment to not operate properly. Install the latest firmware. But note installation of incorrect firmware in some cases could permanently damage the main control board. Also, recheck the scan settings to assure that they are set properly.

PC Computer and Operating System

You must assign each SCSI device a separate SCSI ID to avoid an ID conflict. USB and fire wire devices need proper privileges and security rights when connected to a network. The best method to check for problems with the operating system is to swap the computer with another that you know to be working properly.

Troubleshooting and Repair

You can find minor parts that you can fix without too much technical knowledge. For instance check for broken parts and the tension of springs and flat springs. A parts manual can help you identify a problem. Some companies provide diagnostic software. The Canon quma tool provides diagnostic checks of motors, sensors, solenoids and other essential parts.

If you do not have the technical ability, you can buy a service agreement for your scanner. The warranty covers the maintenance and repairs rather than risking a breakdown and costly time and material repairs. Another option is depot repair where you send the equipment to the repair facility which is less costly than on-site services. Some manufacturers only provide a 90 day warranty and the purchase of an extended warranty is recommended.

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How to Change the Brake Rotors on a 1990 Honda Accord

How to Change the Brake Rotors on a 1990 Honda Accord

The anti-lock braking system on the 1990 Honda Accord uses three main components, in conjunction, to work effectively. The brake pads and calipers are responsible for squeezing against the brake rotor when the brake pedal is depressed. A rotor that is severely scored or warped will not perform as the driver expects. While it is possible to have scratched rotors resurfaced, any deep gouging of the rotor surface or warping will require immediate replacement.

Instructions

    1

    Jack up the Honda and support the vehicle on jack stands.

    2

    Remove the lug nuts with the lug wrench and pull the wheel of the corresponding rotor(s) to be replaced from the wheel bolts.

    3

    Remove the caliper bolts with a 13-mm wrench and pull the caliper from its mount around the rotor. Place the caliper on top of the steering arm or on an idle jack stand to prevent the weight of the caliper from damaging the attached brake line.

    4

    Remove the two screws on the top hat surface of the rotor with a Phillips-head screwdriver. The top hat section of the rotor is the raised center surface on the outside of the rotor.

    5

    Pull the rotor straight from the wheel bolts (outward). Spray the rotor with chain lubricant if it is stuck to the wheel bolts or steering knuckle (the component directly behind the rotor when installed).

    6

    Spray the new rotor with brake cleaner and wipe excess cleaner packing oil from the rotor with a towel.

    7

    Place the new rotor onto the wheel bolts, with the top hat section facing outward. Replace the two screws on the outer surface with the Phillips-head screwdriver.

    8

    Return the caliper onto the rotor and replace the caliper bolts with the wrench.

    9

    Place the wheels onto the wheel bolts and screw on the lug nuts. Remove the jack stands from beneath the Honda and lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.

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How to Change the Rear Brakes for a 1989 Cutlass Supreme

The rear brake pads on a Cutlass Supreme wear down over time but typically not as fast as the front pads. Although the rear brakes dont have to endure the weight of the engine when stopping, they work to keep your car level. Damaged or badly worn rear brakes will cause your car to aggressively lunge forward at any stopping attempt. Rather than spending half of your day at the auto repair shop, you can change the rear brakes on the 1989 Cutlass Supreme right at home. The repair should take you 40 minutes.

Instructions

    1

    Place a wheel block firmly into position in front of both driver and passenger front tires. Use a lug wrench to loosen the rear drivers side tires lug nuts a half-turn counterclockwise.

    2

    Raise the car with the hydraulic jack forward of the tire. The tire should visibly measure 6 inches from the ground. Place a jack stand on the left of the jack beneath the frame rail to help support the weight of the Cutlass Supreme.

    3

    Remove all of the lug nuts and slide the tire off the wheel studs, using both hands. Roll the tire to the side of your work area and place the lug nuts in a safe location free of dirt.

    4

    Note the position and direction of both brake pads on the caliper. They must be replaced just as you see them. Both pads are held in place on the caliper by the clips that are mounted on the surface of each pad. The clips will simply pop out of place.

    5

    Remove the upper and lower caliper mounting bolts at the rear of the brake caliper with a socket wrench. Put the bolts in your pocket for safekeeping. Place a 5-gallon bucket within the wheel well right next to the brake caliper.

    6

    Use both hands to lift the brake caliper up and off the rotor then set it down on top of the bucket. Pop the outer brake pad off the caliper and then pop the inner brake pad off the caliper piston.

    7

    Rotate the caliper piston clockwise with a pair of 12-inch adjustable pliers until it appears completely level in its bore hole. The bore hole is the housing that the piston protrudes from, and the piston must be forced back down into it to install the new brake pads.

    8

    Install the new inner brake pad just as you removed the old pad then install the new outer pad in the same manner. Both pads should pop back into place with a minimal amount of force.

    9

    Lift the brake caliper off the bucket using both hands and slide it back down over the rotor. Install both of the caliper mounting bolts by hand and tighten them until snug. Set your 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to 92 foot-pounds and secure both bolts in place. Move the bucket out of your work area.

    10

    Mount the tire back onto the wheel studs and replace all of the lug nuts by hand. Then use your lug wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern until snug. Remove the jack stand and lower the car until the tire makes contact with the ground. Reset the torque wrench to 100 foot-pounds and continue tightening the lug nuts in the star pattern until secure.

    11

    Lower the car and remove the hydraulic jack. Pump the brake pedal slowly until you feel it stiffen beneath your foot. Repeat the entire process to replace the rear passengers side brake pads.

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How to Take off the Rotor on a 1997 Ford Explorer XLT

The front brake rotors on a 1997 Ford Explorer XLT are a part of the braking system. As the brake pads wear down, so do the brake rotors, and they replacement or resurfacing. Doing so is not a complicated process, and it should take about one hour. It does not require any special tools or equipment.

Instructions

    1

    Park the Explorer on a level surface and turn off its ignition. Loosen the lug nuts, using a tire iron. Raise the Ford Explorer with the jack and raise jack stands to the frame to support the vehicle. Remove the lug nuts and the wheels. Move them away from your workspace.

    2

    Remove the anchor plate-to-steering knuckle bolts that hold the brake caliper to the steering knuckle, using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Hang the caliper from the underside of the vehicle with the mechanics wire, ensuring the brake line does not twist or kink up.

    3

    Pull the wheel hub off the front of the rotor. Remove the rotors center bolt with the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Remove the rotor from the vehicle.

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What is the most powerful street car

Sometimes I wonder what is the most powerful road running car, even Formula-1 racing cars can not match. 15 yrs ago I visited McLaren F1 "ultra-sports" car [not Mclaren Formula-1 car] showroom not far from Marble Arch, near speakers corner at Hyde Park in London. I thought it was going to be the most powerful car already.
The McLaren F1 is a sports car designed and manufactured by Gordon Murray and McLaren Automotive, powered by 6.1liter V12 BMW S70 engine and uses gold foil as a heat shield in the exhaust compartment. On March 31, 1998, it set the record for the fastest production car in the world at 386.7 km/h ! 0–60 mph in 3.2 s

Only 106 cars were manufactured, 64 of those were street versions (McLaren F1), 5 were LMs, 3 were longtail roadcars (GT), 5 prototypes (XP), 28 racecars (GTR), and 1 LM prototype (XP LM). Production began in 1992 and ended in 1998. According to an article by Motor Authority, the Sultan of Brunei owns a total of 9 McLaren F1s. This includes a GTR race car, a GT "longtail," 3 LMs, and 4 road cars, making him the only person in the world to own at least one of every variant of the F1 ever produced by McLaren.

In 2005 Bugatti Veyron took over the title.*
Powered by the mid-mounted 8 litre W16 engine pumping out 1001 PS (736 kW) at 6000 rpm and 1250 Nm of torque between 2200 and 5500 rpm. Has 4 turbochargers. The gearbox is a seven speed sequential with a fully automatic mode channeling that power to all four wheels.
Bugatti claims a top speed of 407 km/h and the 0-100 km/h sprint under 2.7 seconds!
The probability of anyone having a Bugatti Veyron in Malaysia [costs 3x more expensive than McLaren F1] is less than one-in-a million.

There will be poor mans Bugattis though. One of them is Peugeot 308 RC-z, and that will be the most logical candidate for my neXt Peugeot, and that is the answer why I didnt buy a 308GT.... just dreaming on.

Im pretty sure the 308 RCz will be one of if not the fastest affordable car [below RM175k] on local roads.
car_photo_222036_7car_photo_222038_25

*[Note: In y2006 Hennessey Venom Twin Turbo SRT Coupe claimed to be the fastest [410kph] and the most powerful car in the world but arguable due to its limited edition]
the-fastest-and-most_800x0wThe shape of this car reminds me of a Jaguar E-type with registration number T2 and probably it was the only one of its kind in this country - belonged to [just] an A.D.O @ Machang. I was still a primary school kid at then.[Jaguar E-type]

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How do I Remove the Rear Rotor on a 300ZX

How do I Remove the Rear Rotor on a 300ZX?

The rotors on your 300ZX are an essential part of the brake system. As you depress the brake pedal, the brake pads grasp onto the rotors to effectively stop the car. Badly worn rotors will produce a hard grinding sound every time the brakes are applied. Defective rotors will also increase the cars overall stopping distance. You can remove the passenger or drivers side rear rotor with a few tools right at home. If it requires replacement, you should always replace the corresponding rotor as well.

Instructions

    1

    Place a wheel block in the front of both driver and passengers side front tires.

    2

    Loosen the lug nuts on the rear drivers side tire a half turn counterclockwise with a lug wrench. Raise the 300ZX just in front of the tire with a hydraulic jack. Place a jack stand on the left of the hydraulic jack to help support the weight of the car. The bottom of the tire should be no more than 8 inches from the ground.

    3

    Remove the lug nuts and slide the tire off the wheel studs. Roll the tire to the side of your work area and place the lug nuts with the tire so you dont lose them.

    4

    Remove the two bolts at the rear of the brake caliper that hold it in place on the mounting bracket with your socket wrench. If you look at the caliper, you should see four other bolts. Do not remove them because they hold the brake caliper together.

    5

    Place a 5-gallon bucket right next to the brake caliper within the wheel well. Lift the brake caliper--only--off the mounting bracket and set it down on the bucket. Do not remove the brake pads from the bracket.

    6

    Rotate the caliper piston clockwise with a pair of 12-inch adjustable pliers. It has to completely retract back down into the bore hole on the brake caliper. Once it has been fully retracted remount the caliper back over the brake pads.

    7

    Return both of the brake calipers mounting bolts by hand to assure proper threading. Set your 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to 35 foot-lbs. and secure both of the bolts in place.

    8

    Remove the two inner upper and lower mounting bracket bolts with your socket wrench. Lift the entire assembly with the caliper attached, off the rotor and set it down on the bucket. The mounting bracket connects to the steering knuckle and is what the brake pads were sitting in when you had the caliper removed.

    9

    Remove the rotor by pulling it toward you evenly off the wheel studs.

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How to Inspect and Replace Car Brake Rotors How to Jack Your Car Break Loose the Lug Nuts

How to Inspect and Replace Car Brake Rotors : How to Jack Your Car & Break Loose the Lug Nuts Video Clips. Duration : 3.05 Mins.





Learn how to jack up your car and break loose the lug nuts to take off the wheel - free video. Expert: Nathan McCoullough Bio: Nathan McCullough graduated from Nashville Auto-Diesel College with a Grade Point Average of 3.5 and received their craftsmanship award and honor seal. Filmmaker: Robert Rogers



Tags: car, brake, rotors, auto-repair, automotive, inspection, replace, free, video
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How to Replace the Drivers Side Window on a Volvo XC70

How to Replace the Drivers Side Window on a Volvo XC70

A damaged drivers side window on your Volvo XC70 can put your vehicle at serious risk of being broken in to or even stolen. As a result, if you notice any cracks or breaks in your window, you should probably replace it immediately. You can pick up a replacement drivers side window from your local auto store and perform the repair right at home.

Instructions

    1

    Enter the drivers seat of your vehicle. Pry open the casing for the electrical window control. Remove the casing and unhook the electrical connector.

    2

    Use a phillips-head screwdriver to remove the mounting screws on the rubber trim around the edge of the window. Pull the trim away from the window. Remove the mounting bolts black door plate with a wrench. Pull the plate away from the door.

    3

    Unscrew the mounting bolts that connect the window pane to the window regulator. This will free the window from the frame and allow you to remove it.

    4

    Lift the window pane out of the frame of the drivers door. Take care not to cut your hand when removing any broken pieces or shards.

    5

    Insert a new window pane in to the door frame. Fix the window in place by connecting the bolts to the window itself and the window regulator. Reattach the door assembly by following the removal steps in reverse.

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How to Remove the Windshield on a 66 Beetle

How to Remove the Windshield on a 66 Beetle

Perhaps you are painting your classic Volkswagen Beetle and you want to remove the windshield so you can paint under the trim. Or maybe the rubber seal around the windshield has started to rot and crumble. Removing the windshield on a 1966 Beetle is not a difficult job, because the windshield is flat, small, and fairly sturdy. Still, be careful not to push the glass too hard or warp it, lest it break.

Instructions

    1

    Sit in the passenger seat of the Beetle. Starting at the top right corner, slip the blade of a utility knife between the rubber seal and the windshield, holding the handle of the knife as closely as possible to the windshield. Press the blade until it slices through the rubber, touching the metal frame beneath the rubber.

    2

    Cut the rubber seal horizontally along the entire top side of the windshield. Similarly cut the rubber seal on the left and right sides of the windshield, cutting from top to bottom.

    3

    Place your hands on the inside left and right sides of the windshield. Gently push the windshield out, applying pressure equally to both hands. Pivot the glass on the bottom edge where the rubber seal has not been cut. Push until the glass will stand by itself an inch or two outside the top edge, but do not push so far that it will fall out.

    4

    Step outside the car and carefully lift the glass away from the car and rubber seal. Pull out the old rubber seal from around the window.

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